« [p. 211] St. Germain, a tall brick castle, surrounded by a fosse, has a venerable though gloomy aspect : the apartments are small, and for the most part unfurnished, exhibiting only the remnants of magnificence ; but it is not without a feeling of interest we pass through the chambers in which the exiled James spent the last years of his life : the silence and nakedness, both of the castle and town, are in unison with ideas of faded grandeur ; like the character of the fallen monarch, they look monastic, dark and unfortunate. A large town, half inhabited, seldom fails to give birth to melancholy : decay is in all circumstances abhorrent to our feelings, but especially the decay of human society. The principal Restaurateur still exhibits the sign of "The Prince of Wales" ; and feeble as is this record of royalty, it would be difficult to find in any other corner of the world so considerable a mark of respect to the exiled Stuarts. The superb terrace, which bounds the park towards the valley of the Seine, is justly admired [p. 212] for its extent of 7200 fett, and pleasing prospect over Paris and St. Denis. The park contains 8500 acres, and is still stocked with game, for the recreation of the royal family. »

« [p. 178] Lundi, 20. Nous partons pour Saint-Germain. Les environs en sont très jolis. L'intérieur du château est totalement dévasté, et si changé et si négligé, qu'il est presque impossible de retrouver l'appartement royal. Il ne reste rien qu'un grand salon qui a été autrefois un théâtre, et où l'on voit encore le chiffre et la devise de François Ier, et trois petites pièces dorées qui doivent dater du temps de la minorité de Louis XIV.
Toute cette moitié du château, comprenant les appartements habités par notre Jacques et sa famille, a été divisée en deux dans sa hauteur, et est réduite aujourd'hui à deux entresols, occupés, pendant la Révolution française, par une école militaire de cavalerie qui n'existe plus, de sorte que la plus grande partie du château est abandonnée, et le reste sert de caserne à des officiers du dépôt de cavalerie en garnison permanente ici. La ville a un aspect moins florissant que celles des environs de Paris que j'ai déjà vues. La terrasse est belle, comme longueur et comme vue. Le bois, situé derrière la terrasse, est coupé, comme tous les bois [p. 179] français, en étoile, charmant dans sa première verdure et rempli de rossignols. »

« [p. 85] St Germain, though less picturesquely situated than St Cloud, presents features, nevertheless, of more than ordinary magnificence. The Palace, now converted into a school of military education by Napoleon, is a mean irregular building, though it possesses a certain interest, by having been long the residence of the exiled house of Stuart. The situation, however, is truly fitted for an imperial dwelling; it stands on the edge of a high bank overhanging the Seine, at the end a magnificent [p. 86] terrace, a mile and a half long, built on the projecting heights which edge the river. The walk along this terrace is the finest spectacle which the vicinity of Paris has to present. It is backed along its whole extent by the extensive forest of St Germain, the foliage of which overhangs the road, and in the recesses of which you can occasionally discern those beautiful peeps which form the peculiar characteristic of forest scenery. The steep bank which descends to the river is clothed with orchards and vineyards in all the luxuriance of a southern climate; and in front, there is spread beneath your feet the wide plain in which the Seine wanders, whose waters are described at intervals through the woods and gardens with which its banks are adorned; while, in the farthest distance, the towers of St Denis, and the heights of Paris, form an irregular outline on the verge of the horizon. It is a scene exhibiting the most beautiful aspect of cultivated nature, and would have been the fit residence for a Monarch who loved to survey his subjects’ happiness: but is was deserted by the miserable weakness of Louis XIV, because the view terminated in the cemetery of the Kings of France, and his enjoyment of it would have been destroyed by the thoughts of mortal decay. »

« Von Marly aus, gegen Norden, erhebt sich die Anhöhe, auf welcher sich die artige Stadt Saint-Germain en Laye ausbreitet. Hier stand einst ein von dem Könige Robert gestiftetes Kloster. Das Schöne Schloss, das Ludwig XIV einige Zeit bewohnte, ward ein Zufluchtsort des letzten stuartischen Königs, Jacobs II. An den Park schliesst sich ein ansehnliches Holz, mit allerley Wild an, das zu mancher Jagdparthie des Kaisers die Gelegenheit giebt. »

« [p. 365] We proceeded from Marli to St. Germains, along the banks of the Seine, winding at the foot of the hills, which we ascended on approaching the town. It is situated on a lofty eminence, and, with its palace, which, when seen at a great distance, presents a grand and striking object ; but, on a nearer view, we found it a desolate and ruined pile. It once contained numerous apartments superbly furnished for the court of a voluptuous monarch, and was assigned by Louis XIV to James the Second when he had abdicated the English crown, and sought an asylum in a foreign country. Here this infatuated prince maintained [p. 366] the shadowy appearance of royalty, and after some fruitless attempts to recover his lost empire, closed his lamentable life.
The palace stands on a noble terrace, and its domain is connected with the extensive forest of St. Germain. The view from hence is the boast of France, and extends over a tract of country far as the eye can reach, finely varied, and watered by tle Seine in its circuitous course to Paris ; which crowns the whole. But I prefer the woody hills and more confined views from
St. Cloud.
At an hotel near the palace we partook of a cold déjeuné ; and then, entering the forest, proceeded near two miles through one of its boldest avenues to a ci-devant convent, now appropriated to a more useful college for the education of youth. Here we alighted about one o'clock, and passed the rest of the day with our interesting party. While dinner was preparing the master attended us through the different parts of the college ; [p. 367] the courts and gardens contribute to the health and exercise of the youth, the cloisters to their winter recreations, and the halls make excellent school-rooms : the cells of the monks are now neatly papered and fitted up for the elder students ; each of whom has a separate dormitory ; the younger sleep in a large airy apartment with one of the masters ; and the whole appears to be under a well regulated arrangement. We found the boys disposed in due order in the principal school, where two of the first class delivered orations in favour of the Abbé Sicard and his benevolent institution. »

« In returning to Paris, we took the road of St. Germain. The old castle still remains ; but its outward appearance was so gloomy, that we felt no inclination to visit the interiour. If the french monarch intended to pay a compliment to the pretender, in giving him a palace as nearly as possible resembling St. Jame’s, his choice was admirable. The view from the terrace is pretty, but by no means either as extensive, nor as rich, as I expected from its celebrity. »

« [p. 113] The castle of St. Germain en Laye is curious in the eye of an Englishman, because it was the residence of James the Seconde, and his Court, after his abdication. The situation is very fine, and puts you in mind of Windsor ; the Mall and the Bowling-green, which you find here, were both, I imagine, designed to amuse the last unhappy royal visitor ; the great terrace is considerably more than a mile long, and about eighty of ninety feet wide : you have a distant view of Paris on the side of the river from the castle which the King gave to the Comte d’Artois, who had sold it.
[p. 114] Is it a pleasant excursion to this place by the post ; you must set out early in the morning, and return late, to have the whole day at your disposabl, which is not too much for the object in view. As the Thuilleries are at this moment shut ut, even to the passage of the Deputiers, when you return to town, the coolest place to drive to in an evening, is the Palais Roial, where you are sure to find a seat. »

« [p. 486] Of all the royal houses in the proximity of Paris, there is none to compare in point of situation to St. Germain. It is an ancient venerable building, not unlike the castle of Windsor : the apartements [p. 487] are grand and roomy, and quite worthy of a royal guest. Several of them are still inhabited by descendants of some of those families that followed the fortunes of our James the Second.
The gardens of this fine old palace exhibit a beautiful model of the taste of the last century. They are a curioux mixture of the French and English manner of laying out gardens at that time : the bowling-green still subsists, that was made for our dethroned monarch, who, like his brother Charles, took particular delight in that amusement ; il retains its original name, being called le Boulingrin to this day.
But what will please you beyond all the rest, is a terrass highly elevated, and of singular construction, from whence there is a prospect of twenty miles extent, richly variegated by every object which the noblest lendskip can offer to the eye.
[p. 488] It is observed by the French that no place in the neighbourhood of Paris, is so much relished as this by the English. This does not arise from any desire of communication with the descendants of their countrymen who fled from England at the time of the revolution, or those who have since left it from similar motives : with fugitives from this island on policital principles the English are not in the least fond of associating : it arises from the ruralness of the situation, the beautiful aspect of the country around, and the remembrance it inspires of some delightful spots in our own island, not far from our metropolis, by the resemblance it bears to them.
I have heard that James used to say, that his brother of France not being able to restore him to the possession of his kingdoms, had, however, by way of confort, bestowed upon him the beautifullest spot of his own dominions to dwell in.
[p. 489] If at any time you should be inclined to spend a few days in a country recefs, you cannot chuse one at once more elegant and rural. It is in the vicinity of a forest cut into a variety of walks and avenues, which all terminate in some agreeable object.
In this forest, I have been informed, Lewis and James used frequently, in the latter days of this monarch, to enjoy the close of a Summer’s afternoon in walking together. Though the first was incontestibly much superior in abilities to the last, yet their characters corresponded in many essential respects : they were attachew with many equal bigotry to the religion they protest, and equally averse to all others ; they were no less under the influence of a persecuting spirit, abhorrent of toleration, and ready to propagate their belief by violent and coercive means : nor were they dissimilar in their notions of government ; they were both immeasurably fond of unlimited [p. 490] power, and impatient of the least controul : in the privat concerns of life they were far from unlike ; James in his younger days was noted for having his mistresses as well as Lewis : they agreed also in some meritorious respects ; they were kind husbands, and fond parents ; they were gentle masters, and good-natured men within their domestic circle. These qualifications were a sufficient ground for mutual liking and confidence, especially when we consider how much they were personally interested in each other’s prosperity. »

« [p. 26] St. Germains en Laye, wich is only three Miles from Marli, and to which you may drive when your Dinner is [p. 27] over, and if you arrive soon after Six, as you probably will, you may repair to this famed Terras, which is just by the Palace, and only a verry little Way from your Inn ; and there, for half an Hour, or ‘till you tire, you may tread the Walk which was many thousand Times trod over by our Countrymen, who followed the Fortunes of King James the Second. This Palace belongs to the Kings of France, and before Versailles and Marli were produced by Lewis the XIVth, was much reforted to by them, and kept in great Order, and on King James the Second’s leaving England, it was assigned for his Residence by Lewis le Grand, and King James and his Followers and Attendants, accordingly lived therein, and in the Town adjacent, for many Years ; but since his Decease, this Palace, tho’ a noble Structure, and a fine Situation, something like that of Windsor Castle, is growing into Decay ; and therefore the Terras is now the chief of what you’ll go to St. Germains for, except that it is convenient enough for you to lye at, so that you may next Morning in your Return back to Paris by the Way of St. Dennis, call and see. »

« [p. 207] Zu einer andern Zeit ritten wir nach S. Germain en Laye, welches auch ein Königliches Lust Schloß ist, und 6 Meilen von Pariß lieget. Es sind allhier 2 Königliche Häuser, welche beide auf einem Berge erbauet seyn. Das alte ist ein groß Gebäude, so meistens von Ziegelsteinen aufgeführet. Es hat ein ovales Ansehen, und macht eine wunderliche Figur. In drei Ecken des Hoffes stehen hohe Thürme, in welchen man biß oben auf das Dach steigen kan. Auf dem Dache liegen grosse steinerne Platten, welche so geleget seyn, daß das Wasser darauf abschießt. Und auf den Seiten befinden sich schöne Seulen, welche das ganze Gebäude umgeben, und einen vortreflichen Altan machen. Man kan sich weit und breit darauf umsehen, und ein groß Stücke Landes [p. 208] betrachten. Gegen Mitternacht ist ein Lust-Garten welcher mit schönen Quartieren und Gängen ausgeziehret ist. Nächst daran stößt ein dicker Wald, oder Thier Garten, welcher etliche Meilen groß ist, und rings herum mit einer Mauer umgeben. Man nennet diesen Wald das Holz der Verrätherey. In einer Ecken stehet ein steinerner Tisch, daran ehemahls diejenigen gesessen, welche eine gro Verrätherey angerichtet, und sich deswegen einander verschworen haben. Von diesem Holße ist merkwürdig, daß es von der Zeit an teine Früchte getragen. Wenn man einen Ast von einem Baume abschneidet, so verdorret er, und bringt keine Blätter mehr hervor. Der Ast selbst zu Grunde, wie ein Stein, wo er in die vorbeyflüßende Seine geworffen wird. Man meynet, daß Gott dadurch feinen Zorn anzeige, welchen er gegen die Verräther gefasset, die an diesem Orte ihre Gottlosigkeit beschlossen haben. Das neue Hauß liegt ohngefehr 200. Schritte von dem alten, und ganz an der Ecke des Berges. Es ist zwar nicht so weitläufftig, hoch und groß, als das vorige, aber viel schöner, ordentlicher und künstlicher gebauet. Man kan aus einem Zimmer in das andere gehen. Das ganze Gebäude ist gleichsam in zwei Quartiere eingerheilet, eins vor den König, und das andere vor die Königin. Wie denn auch auf beyden Seiten die Zimmer einerley seyn. Bey diesem Berge ist ein schöner Platz zusehen wo auf beyden Seiten vortreffliche Grotten gemachet seyn. In der esten funden wir einen runten Tisch von schwarzen [p. 209] Marmor, welcher in der Mitten ein Röhrgen hatte. Auf daßelbe steckte der Kunst Meister unterschiedne Instrumente, durch welche das Wasser auf unterschiedne Weise sprunge. Insonderheit gefiel uns eine Art wohl, da das Wasser eine Gestalt vorstellete, als wenn man ein Kelch Glaß von dem schönsten Christall sähe An der Wand faß eine Nymphe, welche auf der Orgel schlug, und das Haupt darzu bewegte. Mercurius aber stund bey dem Fenster auf einem Fusse, und machte ein lustiges Stückgen mit seiner Trompete. Auf der andern Seite sahe man einen Guckug, welcher auf einem Baume saß, und seine Stimme so natürlich hören ließ, als wenn er lebendig wäre. In der andern Grotte wurden wir einen Drachen gewahr, welcher aus seiner Klufft hervor kam. Er schlug mit seinen Flügeln um sich, regte den Kopf, streckte ihn hoch in die Höhe, und spiehe viel Wasser von sich Um ihn befanden sich viel Vögel, welche ihre Stimmen erhuben, und eine angenehme Mufique machten. An der andern Seite stund ein großer Trog, welcher von Muscheln und Meersteinen sehr künstlich verfertiget war. Neptunus kam auf einem Wagen hinein gefahren, welcher von zwei Meerwundern aus einer Klufft gezogen wurde. Es regte sich alles, als wenn es lebendig wäre. Wie er sich nun in dem Troge mit seinem Wagen umgewendet hatte, so fuhr er wieder in seine Klufft hinunter. Von diesem Orte giengen wir auf einen andern Platz, wo wir ebenfalls schöne Grotten antraffen. In der ersten sahen wir auch einen grossen Trog, welcher [p. 210] mit Wasser ganz angefüllet war. Wie wir hinzukamen, so war nichts darinnen zu finden. Bald aber regte sich allmehlich ein großer Drache. Er kam aus dem Wasser hervor, breitete die Flügel aus, hub den Kopf in die Höhe, und verursachte ein wunderlich Geräusche. Endlich spiehe er viel Wasser von sich, daß wir uns kaum retiriren konten. Auf der andern Seite stund ein Berg, daran sich Wind und Wasser Mühlen befanden, die ordentlicher Weise herum giengen. Dabey sahe man allerley Handwercks Leute, welche anfiengen zu arbeiten, und sich an allen Orten bewegten. An dem äussersten Ende der Grotte saß Orpheus mit seiner Leyer und um ihn stunden viel Thiere und Vögel So bald er nun anfieng zu leyern, sogleich wurde auch alles rege, und sprung um ihn herum. In allen diesen Grotten muß man sich wohl in acht nehmen, wenn man nicht will bade naß werden. Denn ehe man sichs vermuthet, so springet das Wasser aus der Erden, aus den Wänden, und auch aus der Decke. Es ist lustig anzusehen, wenn es uns nur nicht selber betrifft. Hier hielt sich der König in Engelland, Jacob der II. auf, und beweinte mit seiner Gemahlin die grosse Thorheit, welche er in Engelland begangen. Sein Vater, Carl der I. vergriff sich an dem ersten Grund Gesetze und wollte aus eigner Macht dem Volcke Contributionen aufflegen. Darüber verlohr er sein Königreich, und auch seinen Kopff darzu. Hieran hätte sich sein Sohn spiegeln sollen, und desto behutsamer regieren. Allein er griff das andere Grund [p. 211] Gesetze an, und wolte neue Gesetze machen, ohne das Parlament darum zu befragen. Hierüber büßte er seine drey Kronen ein, und muß allhier das Gnaden Brod essen. Doch was können nicht die Papistischen Rathgeber anrichten, wenn sie einen Regenten überreden wollen, daß er wider alle Grund Gesetze handeln, und seine Evangelische Unterthanen mit Gewalt zum Pabstthum zwingen dürffe. »