« [p. 182] After passing Mont Calvary, you drive on through several villages, and near Malmaison, and the heights and water-works of Marly, to this town, so long the favourite residence of the sovereigns of France, and afterwards of the last of the Stuart kings.
Its imposing chateau presents no interior attraction : wanting furniture, it looks like what it has occasionally been used for [p. 183] a barrack : and now its only tenants are the porter, and his family. His daughter, a lively brunette, showed us over it, and, on coming to Madame La Valière’s apartment, she pointed to the ceiling, in which there is ingeniously concealed by the moulding, a trap-door, by which to avoid the vigilance of his mother, Anne of Austria, Louis XIV descended to his mistress. I need not give you further description of this deserted caravansery, or its very richly decorated chapel.
In the Place d’Armes, opposite the château stands the new church, with a large Doric portico.
Its altar is splendid. On the left is a very small free-stone monument, within a slight railing : the inscription tells us that, beneath it repose the remains (les dépouilles) of James II King of England.
I recollect reading somewhere, that a superb monument, to be erected over it, was executing, during the reign, and at the expense [p. 183] of, George IV. I know nothing of the circumstance, but I suspect that the design (I wish you would ask Mr. Hume) has ended in a mere job ; for, within the railing there are three or four pieces of marble, evidently intended for a monument, laying among some straw, which apparently surrounded the case in which they were packed. If put up, they would form such a monument as the widow of a Parisian shoemaker would blush to see over the grave of her husband, at Père la Chaise.
Of the ancien forest called Sylvia Lida, which in the time of Charlemagne was the most extensive in France, that of St Germain is a remaining portion, which still occupies about 8,000 acres, surrounded by walls. It produces the most stately trees, and the finest timber that I have seen in France : roads and paths traverse it, and the walks, which we have found exceedingly pleasant, are frequented [p. 185] chiefly by genteel-looking persons. Guide posts to direct passengers, are placed where roads traverse each other ; and we frequently meet with crosses, erected at various periods, to commemorate known or forgotten events. Roebucks, deer, stags, and wild boars, are preserved her for the Royal Hunt ; and the Château de la Muette, in the centre of the forest, is the rendezvous à la chasse. The pheasantry is surrounded with walls, and annually sown with buck-wheat. The fairs of St. Germain are held twice a year in the forest.
The magnificent terrace, probably the most spacious in Europe, extending in front of the wood, along the elevated bank of the Seine, is a mile and a half long, and one hundred feet in breadth. The trees of the forest shade and shelter this once regal promenade, and a fine parapet and railing, rise along the whole edge of the abrupt height, which forms its outward boundary.
[p. 186] The view from the terrace, if not what tourists would consider enchantingly sublime, is certainly magnificent, in regard to prospect, and its landscape is truly rich in picturesque beauty.
Here often did the most amorous of Princes and the fair La Valière, promenade in the hey-day of youth and passion ; here did the bigoted James, and his gloomy confessor saunter, accompanied, perhaps, by the devoted Duchess of Perth ; and here now may some retired English families, and a few of the old, quiet inhabitants of St. Germain, be seen walking in pensive mood, when the evenings are calmly closing days spent, in lazy monotony : but the splendour of Royalty, the joyous revelry, the courtly amours, and political intrigues, from it are fled – in all probability, for ever.
As a mere town, I dislike St. Germain, it has scarcely a house worthy of notice.
The Hotel de Noailles, once a sumptuous [p. 187] residence, has been converted into barracks, which now form the imposing lodgment of the King’s body guard. »

« De Saint Germain, le 12e juillet 1669
J’ay adverty les entrepreneurs qui travaillent dans Saint Germain qu’ils seront tous receus au rabais pour les ouvrages des terrasses et leur en ay donné le devis. Il y en a cinq qui se presentent, dont il y en a deux qui sont allez aujourd’hui trouver monsieur Perault à Paris, dont l’un est le frere du sieur Hanicle, l’autre est un nommé Bulé de Saint Germain.
Les trois autres m’ont donné chacun un mémoire par escrit qu’ils ont signé, que j’envoyeray demain par homme exprès à monsieur Perault.
Pour le mur de la grande terrasse
Le sieur Dorbay demande 42 l. de la thoise cube
Le sieur La Rue, 41 l.
Le sieur Hennequin, 40 l.
Pour le mur d’allignement avec celuy du boulingrin, qui sera construit de quatre assize de pierre dure du pays, il sera payé à la thoise quarrée de six piedz en quarré sur son espesseur de 4 p.
Le sieur Dorbay en demande 53 l.
Le sieur La Rue, 52 l.
Le sieur Hennequin, 65 l.
La fondation sera aussy payé à la thoise quarrée sur 5 p. ½ d’espesseur.
Le sieur Dorbay la faict pour 30 l.
Le sieur La Rue, 30 l.
Le sieur Hennequin, 40 l.
sans comprendre la fouille des terres.
Je leur ay dict de se trouver tous dimanche au matin chez monsieur Perault pour conclure ce marché.
J’ay dressé le conte du sieur Moyer que je luy ay mis entre les mains pour le terminer. Je le fus trouver hier, où je le fis demeurer d’accord des principaux articles, et luy ay fait apostiler de sa main sur led. conte en marge de chaque article, de sorte qu’en luy accordant presque le tout suivent ses apostils, il demeure redevable de 19705 l.
Les stucateurs acheveront demain la sculpture du dedans du vestibulle et acheveront mercredy les trois autres platfondz dud. vestibulle.
Je ne fais pas encores gratter la tour de l’horloge du costé de la terrasse du Roy comme monsieur Le Brun le demande, pour ce qu’il m’a dict qu’il falloit attendre que les peintres qui travaillent au portique et à la base de la colonne ayent achevé et couvert leur ouvrage.
Monsieur Le Brun promet que les peintres et doreurs auront entierement achevé le petit appartement du Roy la semaine prochaine.
Je feray demain achever de poser les deux contrecœurs de cuivre aux cheminées dud. appartement.
J’ay faict ce matin poser le thuyau au milieu du plancher de la petitte grotte dud. appartement. Le Roy l’a fait esprouver devant luy apres son lever.
Le mur de terrasse du boulingrin advance, il n’y a plus que six piedz de maçonnerie à eslever. Il y a 307 hommes qui y travaillent et quarent huict ouvriers à la terrasse du jardin du sieur Belier. Les quatre assizes de pierre sont presque eslevées dans la longueur dud. jardin.
Les paveurs ont commencé aujourd’huy de travailler à la continuation du pavé des escueryes. Il ne sont encores que trois paveurs.
L. Petit »

« [p. 135] S. Germains, commonly called S. Germains en Laye, is a small town of the isle of France, in the district of Mantois, situated on a high hill, at the foot of which runs the Seine, about twelve miles to the westward of Paris, and one from Versailles. It is remarkable for the royal castle or palace, which was begun by Charles V and enlarged and beautified by succeeding princes, but especially by Lewis XIV who was born here. The palace is built in the form of a castle, and [p. 136] surrounded with a dry ditch. A magnificent stone gallery runs round the middle of the whole structure, which is of an oval figure, and the roof is covered with thin flat free-stone instead of tiles. The chapel is remarkable for an excellent altar-piece, representing the Lord's Supper, by Poussin. The prospect from the castle is admirable, especially towards the river and the plains, having Paris, S. Denis, and Marli, within sight. There is a curious mall in this castle, with square pavilions built all along, for the conveniency of the players and spectators. Among the improvements made to this place by Lewis XIV he added the terrass of above three thousand paces in length, the grand parterre, and the valley-garden. There are abundance of dry grottos, which afford pleasant retreats in the summer, and several wet ones, with curious water-works, and artificial birds, which make an agreeable sound. In one of the grottos there is a virgin playing on the organs, whose eyes are so artificially moved, that she seems to be alive; in another place there is an Orpheus playing on the lute, and keeping time, while the beasts, birds, woods and rocks seem to follow him, with several representations of the like nature, all put into motion by water. The adjacent forest contains upwards of five thousand acres, and is cut through with an infinate number of large ridings, well replenished with game, which renders it a most agreeable situation for hunting. It was in this castle that the late king James resided with his court during his exile, and here he died in 1701. His body was afterwards interred in the monastery of the English Benedictins in Paris.
The town of S. Germains is well peopled, which is owing to the goodness of the air, and the privileges they enjoy. The houses are high [p. 137] and well built. There are some squares, with several hotels; among the rest, that of the duke of Noailles, which is neatly furnished, and has some handsome gardens. The town has only one parish, an hospital, and some convents, which are those of the Recollects, the Ursuline Nuns, and the bare-footed Augustinians, who live in the forest. »

« Lundi de cette semaine, ceux de nos lecteurs qui ont été se promener sur le parterre, vers midi, ont été surpris d’entendre résonner à leurs oreilles les accents guerriers de la musique militaire. C’était le 38e de ligne que le général S. Cavaignac, commandant du département de Seine-et-Oise, venait tout exprès passer en revue. La garnison de Saint-Germain, celle de Poissy et de Rueil, formant l’effectif du régiment, s’étaient données rendez-vous sur notre magnifique parterre. Rien n’a manqué à l’éclat de cette cérémonie. Le général, suivi d’un nombreux état-major, a passé dans chaque rang et examiné la tenue des soldats. Après cette visite minutieuse, le colonel a fait manœuvrer les troupes, et le général a applaudi à tous leurs mouvements. Le défilé a eu lieu ensuite avec beaucoup de précision et d’ensemble. Puis chaque compagnie a repris le chemin de ses quartiers respectifs. Après le défilé, nous avons pu admirer l’état-major du 38e, qui s’est rendu par la place du Château pour passer devant le quartier. On a cru un moment que nous allions être honorés de la faveur de le posséder dans notre ville, mais on a été détrompé, en le voyant s’en retourner tranquillement où il était caserné, et notre bataillon reprendre sa première demeure.
Cette revue trimestrielle de M. le général Cavaignac a été favorisée par un soleil magnifique d’autant plus précieux qu’il se montre rarement maintenant à nos yeux. »

« Monsieur le Ministre,
Vous avez bien voulu autoriser pour l’exercice 1886 les réparations les plus urgentes à exécuter au mur de soutènement de la grande terrasse de Saint-Germain-en-Laye. En donnant les ordres relatifs à ce travail, j’ai constaté que le tour d’échelle appartenant à l’Etat au pied de ce mur a été envahi par presque tous les riverains. Ils y ont déposé et amoncelé le long de ce mur des immondices de toute sorte, qui ne peuvent qu’augmenter les dégradations, qui permettent aux rodeurs d’escalader plus facilement la terrasse, et dont la présence rend en outre presque impossible les réparations projetées pour 1886.
De plus, plusieurs des bornes qui ont été placées il y a une quinzaine d’années pour limiter le domaine ont été enlevées. Il est urgent de les remplacer, l’Etat ne pouvant abandonner ses droits.
J’ai écrit aux maires des communes du Pecq et de Mesnil-Carrières, mais je crois que, pour obtenir un résultat favorable aux intérêts du domaine de l’Etat, il serait nécessaire que M. le Ministre des Beaux-Arts voulut bien en écrire à son collègue M. le Ministre des Finances, pour inviter le directeur des Domaines de Versailles à s’entendre avec l’architecte des Parterres et terrasses afin d’aviser aux mesures à prendre ici pour faire respecter le domaine de l’Etat par les riverains du mur de la terrasse et pour obliger les riverains à enlever les immondices qu’ils ont déposés au pied du mur, à nettoyer la place et à rétablir les bornages qui ont disparus.
J’ai l’honneur etc.
Signé : Lafollye »

« [p. 113] The castle of St. Germain en Laye is curious in the eye of an Englishman, because it was the residence of James the Seconde, and his Court, after his abdication. The situation is very fine, and puts you in mind of Windsor ; the Mall and the Bowling-green, which you find here, were both, I imagine, designed to amuse the last unhappy royal visitor ; the great terrace is considerably more than a mile long, and about eighty of ninety feet wide : you have a distant view of Paris on the side of the river from the castle which the King gave to the Comte d’Artois, who had sold it.
[p. 114] Is it a pleasant excursion to this place by the post ; you must set out early in the morning, and return late, to have the whole day at your disposabl, which is not too much for the object in view. As the Thuilleries are at this moment shut ut, even to the passage of the Deputiers, when you return to town, the coolest place to drive to in an evening, is the Palais Roial, where you are sure to find a seat. »

« [p. 162] Nous arrivons avant sept heures du matin sur cette terrasse si vantée des Parisiens, et qui, par hasard, se trouve belle en effet. Elle court, à peu près du midi au nord, dans une étendue de plus de deux milles ; on y foule, en cette saison, une tendre pelouse : on y jouit de l’ombre la plus fraîche, du vert le plus doux, et d’un feuillage presque transparent dans son clair tissu. La rivière, sur un lit tortueux, coule entre des prairies, et va découper inégalement le pied des coteaux et la vaste campagne. La vue est grande ; elle touche, elle intéresse ; mais les voyageurs de notre capitale, et les descripteurs de ses environs, ont tort de dire que l’imagination ne peut rien enfanter au-delà. Cette hyperbole, sans diminuer mon plaisir, m’oblige de m’en rendre compte. Je me tourne vers Paris, et je ne l’aperçois [p. 163] pas. Le Mont-Valérien me couvre l’immense cité ; mais si, de la butte du Calvaire, je m’approche de Lucienne, et que, passant sur Marly, je ceintre de l’œil les coteaux qui me ramènent à Saint-Germain, ces paysages boisés, remplis de fabriques, m’occupent agréablement. Je plonge ensuite sur la plaine, les variétés en sont disparues. Les collines nous montrent, à leurs bases et sur leurs croupes, un assez grand nombre de villages et de châteaux, mais les sommets sont peu festonnés : ces hauteurs sont nues et grises ; elles paraissent incultes dans l’éloignement. Est-ce là de ces tableaux qui laissent une impression durable ? Est-ce à ces vues sans accidens, sans ruptures, sans inégalités, que l’âme s’attache ? Votre esprit cherche-t-il à s’égarer dans des vallées profondes ? Voyez-vous le pic d’un mont élevé, surmonté par un autre pic que d’autres surmontent encore ? Entend-on de loin une cascade solitaire ? L’épaisseur d’une sombre forêt qui descend de la pointe d’un morne dans les vallons, vous indique-t-elle avec frayeur le séjour silencieux des bêtes fauves et des oiseaux de proie ? Sentiez-vous quelque part la joie épanouissante de rencontrer ou d’apercevoir, au milieu d’un désert, une cabane habitée ? Entendez-vous avec palpitations le cliqueti d’un moulin répété par les échos ? Non, vos transports [p. 164] sont tranquilles ; vous pouvez marquer de l’œil, parmi des habitations nombreuses, votre hospice pour la nuit qui s‘approche. Votre plaisir est sans trouble ; il est donc faible, et va vous quitter en rentrant dans votre cabinet. »

« At Saint Germain en Laye we stopped to take a view of the palace. It is a gloomy structure, built of a dark-coloured brick, and has more the apperance of a prison than a palace. It was the retreat of the fugitive James II of England ; and here, worn with vexation and grief, he expired. It was originally designed by its founder, Francis I, as a hunting seat for the kings of France, when they enjoyed the diversion of the chase in the adjoining forest of Laye. It has been much neglected of late, however, and has greatly suffered from the Prussian soldiers, by whom it was occupied as barracks during the late war. From the terrace is a very extensive prospect, and Paris is distinctly seen in the distance. The town of St. Germain is chiefly built of stone – the streets are wide, the houses, generally, are on a grand scale, and there is an air of magnificence about the whole. The approach to it, by a spacious avenue through the forest, is extremely fine. In this forest Napoleon took great delight, and there he used frequently to hunt. »

« [p. 47] Château St. Germaine-en-Laye
St. Germain en Laie is four leagues from Paris, on the edge of the forest of Laie (one of the largest and finest in France), on the road to Mantes.
Its greatest ornament is the Château originally built for the accommodation of the kings of France when they were disposed to hunt in the neighbouring forest. Francis I caused the old castle to be demolished, and constructed a new one nearer the Seine, now denominated the Old Castle, and entirely in ruins. Henry IV built what is called the New Palace, which Louis XIII and XIV embellished; the latter adding the noble towers which flank the angles. The terrace of St. Germaine is 7200 feet in length.
Here were born Henry II, Charles IX, and Louis XIV; and in this palace James II, of England, found, after the Revolution of 1688, a truly royal asylum. He died here in 1701. The views were from the terrace of the course of the Seine, the villages and country seats bordering the metropolis, the rich and animated meadows, and the distant hills, are most picturesque and delightful. On one of the hills in the distance may be distinguished the fine aqueduct of Marly.
[…]
[p. 127] Cour du château de St. Germain
The road from Paris to St. Germain-en-Laie offers many points of interest to the traveller. Passing through the Champs Elysees, we reach the Barriere and then the bridge of Neuilly, whence appears, on an eminence to the right, the picturesque village of Courbevoie: farther on is Colombes, remarkable chiefly as the residence of Henrietta, wife of Charles I of England. She died here in 1669. The next village is Nanterre, about two leagues and a quarter from Paris, and one of the most ancient neighbours. Here St. Genevieve, the patroness of the metropolis, is said to have been born in the fifth century. Close by is Ruel, distinguished by its superb barracks, erected by Louis XV, and occupied by the Russians as a military hospital in 1814. The church is a superior edifice of the 16th century; and not far distant the chateau of cardinal Richelieu is to be seen. Malmaison now presents its fine grounds, and is succeeded by Marly and its celebrated aqueduct; the road from the former winding along the left bank of the Seine until it reaches the town of St. Germain. Marly and its neighbourhood afford many delightful views of the environs of Paris.
We have already adverted to the history of the Chateau de St. Germain. The seat of an English court and cabinet for the last ten years of the 17th century, it has never since been a favorite residence of the French monarchs; was almost abandoned in the reigns of Louis XV and XVI, and converted, during the Revolution, into barracks. The ancient court shown in the plate is in the best style of the period of Francis I and Henry IV, to whom this palace owes its chief buildings. »